Haute Route, The Walkers Route / 12 Days Chamonix To Zermatt

 

 

Haute Route, The Walkers Route / 12 Days Chamonix To Zermatt

 

 

The day couldn’t come soon enough where I was ready to go and leave Sydney Behind and live a Purpose / Live a Dream!!!

But first was the 42hr door to door Transit from Sydney to my Hotel in Chamonix…

 

It all started with a 6hr stop over in Hong Kong. So I go and clear customs and take the fast train to Kowloon for a “Bite to eat”. This travel thing is making me hungry all ready.

 

Soon enough I was back at the airport and on a 1am flight to Frankfurt/ Germany. Where I had a 5hr stop over – Ok on the train I go to the marienplatz for yet again food…

 

The Lufthansa Flight to Geneva couldn’t come quick enough. It was not until I was on the bus to Chamonix from Geneva Airport that i suddenly thought. 

 

THIS STUFF IS REAL – 12 DAYS OF HIKING ON THE HAUTE ROUTE – THE WALKERS ROUTE …

 

I FINALLY MADE IT TO MY HOTEL –  Chamonix on monday 26/6/17 at 16:40,

 

there I had 2 nights before I met the whole group. With a quick dash around town that night and OH I forgot I had to speak French – I was buggered.

The next day I ventured to the Aiguille Du Midi / “The real top of Europe” and within view of the Mont Blanc Range with this you can read more on the Blog I wrote about it.

 

 

 

 

The Haute Route is the classic trekking route linking Chamonix to Zermatt, Mont Blanc with the Matterhorn.

Each day is defined by ascending and descending formidable mountain passes.

 

You’ll walk in rocky Scree, flowered meadows, skirt around massive glaciers and pass torquise lakes.

On your Haute Route trek you pass the twelve highest peaks in the Alps. And this is truly Mountain Hiking at Its best .

 

Haute Route –

 

Day 1 29/6/17 – Chamonix (1037m) to Trient (16kms) Time (8hrs) Height Gain (1167m) Height Loss (925m)

Highest Point – Col De Balme (2204m)

 

The Excitement of the next 12 days was in the air as we had a early departure from civilisation – Awesome breakfast was had and we were on a way shortly after 08:10 for a 08:40 bus to Argentierre.

 

We arrive at Argentierre at 09:10 and head straight to the bakery for lunch supplies. (get used to it bread is on the menu for the next two weeks) 

 

Finally found the track head and its UP UP and UP, Followed by a drop to the valley. Then at the foot of the next rise was Le Tour where we had a break (coffee) For some.

 

We then continued up the beautiful alpine lush green Hills onto Col De Balme (2204m). This is the Alpine Border Between France and Switzerland.

 

You could feel the instant change in weather here with the cold winds churning through the Col. 

We along with other hikers attempted to retreat to the Day Hut. It was  quickly found out that there was a Old Couple “managing the hut”.

 

Which clearly were not friendly to anyone entering the hut.  PROBLEM – Some entered expecting to eat their own food “picnic”. Once inside and they were only offering “Tea and Broth”.  

 

Hardly appealing and of course the couple only spoke French. So we mingled in and out the the hut for a while until we headed off at 15:00.

Hiked to Puerty where we enjoyed skirting along the mountain, through the forrest and then finally descended to Puerty at 16:30. Finally arriving at  Trient (1279m) shortly after at 16:45.

 

Our accommodation for the night at Auberge Du Mont Blanc – 12 Bed Dorn.  Welcome to the party Non Snorers 🙂

I made a mistake,  as I was admiring the lovely German Girl behind the bar I thought I would order a “vegetarian tomato fondue”.  What was I thinking? Simply cheese and nothing but, rather ordinary for a hike the next day.

 

 

 

 

 Day 3 1/1/17 – Champex (1466m) to Le Chable: (16kms) Height Gain (1014m) – Height Loss (749m) Time (7.5hrs) Low Point – Sembrancher (717m)

With a partly overcast morning we were off by 08:30 as we made our way out of Champex. The morning hike was quite relaxing as it was a stroll down hills and past farm land.

 

Through a tiny Hamlet which shortly after got us to the old town of Dembremacher for lunch.

 

At a Italian restaurant (Its Sunday and nothing else is open) Horse is on the menu and at least now I can say I have tried it.

Sembrancher,  is a attractive stoned walled village thats certainly worth some exploring.

 

This days hiking was relatively easy and were in Le Chable by 16:00.

 

A old village which is the base, for lift access to the resort town of Verbier and many other locations such as Mont Fort. We stayed at Camp De Base Le Chable.

 

Great afternoon for a few drinks before dinner at Restaurant Le Couloir which had fantastic service.

 

 

2/7/17 Day 4 – Le Chable (821m) to Cabane du Mont Fort: (9km) Time (8hrs)

Height Gain (1636m) Highest Point – Cabane du Mont Fort (2457m)

 

Well in our effort to take the cable car up to Mont Fort Glacier. And come up close and personal to a it without actually walking on it failed miserably.

 

We were shrouded in low lying cloud and visibility was very poor once we were at the base of Mont Fort glacier.

So we headed back down to Verbier for lunch, where I had this amazing seafood spaghetti marinara 2pm.

 

It was time to whisk back down and grab our packs at Le Chable. To hike to our Mountain hut for the night Cabane Mont Fort (2457m)

 

We finally had visual on the Cabane after we nagvigated our way through fog and low cloud. Amazing scenes on approach to Cabane Mont Fort with the outdoor setting that overlooks the valley below. The Mont Blanc Range in the far distance (not that we could see anything).

 

18:30 Dinner was Spaghetti Bolognaise on the menu, there was a over supply of Pasta.  And not so much sauce, Dam i’am a little hungry I say –

 

This is where we met the Americans, 1 Englishman and 2 Dutchies.

 

 

 

3/7/17 Day 5 – Cabane du Mont Fort (2457m) to Cabane de Prafleuri (14km)

Height Gain (885m) Height Loss (740m) Time (9hrs) Highest Point – Col de Prafleuri (2965m)

 

Wow – We woke to the cloud clearing in the valley which then gave us views of the Mont Blanc Range. So Majestic being above the clouds and seeing them move up the valley at a fairly fast rate.

 

Departure this morning was 08:30, we left to the right of the cabane and then up a awfully long scree slope to Col De La Chaux (2940m).

Arrived at 10:45 for a break , this was our first real taste of high alpine climbing. With very slippery scree and technical ascent/ descents was what we had to tackle for the next two days.

 

The decent into Col De Louvie (2921m) was very slippery in terms of footing. The mix of rock hoping over large boulders before a unexpected OH WOW.

 

The View of Lac De Louvie Mont Fort was simply “Gorgeous”.

The valley high was carved from the last Ice Age with the Morriane Walls shaping the greater expanse. Then a dramatic drop to Lac De Louvie and the Combin Massif in the distance. 

 

This signalled a great spot for lunch…

 

Leaving this scene behind at 13:30 meant we still had another two Col’s to pass.

 

Col De Louvie and the second being Col De Prafleuri (2965m). Hiking in some of the most alpine desert like terrain that you will ever see, very harsh environment that has very minimal life.

 

The ascent up to Col De Prafleuri was rather tiring as there were several short but steep false summits before you actually got to the foot of the Col.

 

The relief in hand was the view South East over a very scarred mountain Bowl looking out to Mont Blanc on the haute Route. 

The Decent down to Prafleuri was a steep and tricky one. Followed by a flat section over glacial runoff then a final drop on a slight grassy slope.

 

You are then taken below the Cabane so unfortunately we had another rise to our destination to where I eagerly look my boots off and had a well earned drink.

 

What a tiring day of hiking though some extremely challenging terrain Col after Col. But on the flip side being rewarded with some mind blowing scenery.

 

THIS IS WHAT WE LIVE FOR – Haute Route, The Walkers Route

                                Col De Louvie

 

4/7/17 Day 6 – Cabane de Prafleuri (2624m) to Arolla (22km) Time (10hrs)

Height Gain (735m) Height Loss (1353m) Highest Point – Col De Rieddmatten (2919m)

08:00 departure out of Prafleuri meant we were on short but very steep ascent to Col Des Roux (2804m). To the left side out of the Valley,  this posed a Grand view of a Glacial Lac called Val Des Dix. A large glacial lake in a huge mountain bowl. 

 

After a short break here our decent was on the right side of the lake and then down to green pastured mountains. It was a 5 km walk on our decent    and along the lake with another short break.

 

before our climb up to the moon scape terrain similar to the previous day Here we had lunch with a distant view of the lake and behind us the view to Pas de Chevres. 

 

By 13:00 we were relaxed and up ready to tackle one of my highlights of the whole Haute route trek. 

 

A super rocky ascent up to Pas Des Chevres (2855m) which was ascending over glacial moraine walls that was very slippery under foot.

 

The final Ascent to Pas Des Chevres was very steep with very loose rocks under foot. Which meant it was best tackled on all fours to prevent yourself from taking a almighty slip back down to where you came from.

 

You also had to be very careful that you didn’t send a mini avalanche down to the group below.

 

As we all re gathered, the decision was to either go straight up over larger rocks. Or take a right and head a along a very narrow trail to a set of Chains and then up a Four Tier steel ladder system. That had a very high exposed drop to the right (Hold on and don’t look down)

We took the second option and if anyone was scarred of heights (now is not the time to look down.)

Mitch and I with 2 others took packs or guided the group up if needed. I did this whole process 4 times.

 

Finally once you rise after the last ladder its another story book scene. Which includes the Veisivi – Bertol wall above Arolla, beyond that the top of Dent Blanche and the Summit Cone of the Matterhorn. Savour this moment on your Haute Route as you won’t see it again until you arrive in Zermatt several days later.

 

The decent down to Arolla was a steep but gradual one over mountain pastures. About halfway down Heidi one of the Americans we met previously had a nasty fall.

 

In the respect to First Aid she took the Rescue Chopper out (At a hefty price no doubt) but recovered well and was on the trail a few days later.

 

We did not arrive into Arolla and our Hotel Aiguille de La Tza until 18:00. As it was a bit tricky finding the way down to Arolla and then to our accommodation.

 

Dinner was at 19:30 and some very annoyed Australians were starting to appear as it took 2 hours to receive our meals. I certainly will not be recommending their service.

 

 

Haute route – The Walkers Route

 

 

7/7/17 Day 9 – Cabane de Moiry (2825m) to Zinal (14km) Time (7.5hrs) Height Gain (462m) Height Loss (1612).                                                          

Highest Point – Col Sorebois (2847m)

 

08:30 departure as we walked back down the way we came for about 45 mins to take a right for the High Route.

With splendid views as you rise to leave the Glacial landscape behind you. Through green pasture mountain side, after a while the Jade Green of Lac De Moiry becomes in full view. 

 

You have the chance to see Chamois or Ibex, sadly we didn’t see any. The intersection above the dam wall of Lac De Moiry we had a short break.

 

Before taking a right and walking up steep long switchbacks and valleys views into Grimentz.

In reaching Col Sorebois (2847m) an hour later, Which presents you with panorama views of high peaks dominated by the Weisshorn.

 

The decent down to Zinal was a long one with tired knees/ legs. The views were impressive as you descended into the forrest and finally the village of Zinal.

 

Probably one of the biggest towns on the Haute Route due to its proximity to the above lying ski fields.

Tonight we were at the Auberge Alpina by 16:00 and  enjoyed drinks in town on a fantastic summers afternoon then dinner shortly after.

 

 

Highest Point – Meidpass (2790m)

 

Today we were up and out early, 07:30 bus to Vissoie then a 08:15 bus to St Luc. A quick shop for lunch and then the 09:30 Funicular to Tignousa,  09:45 we were off on our ascent to the Meidpass.

 

This section leaves the French speaking Valais and into German Speaking Wallis.

 

After leaving the service road for Hotel Weisshorn, We had wonderful views to the actual pass. Green mountain pasture crossing a stream a number of times until the base of the pass.

 

Lunch was at the top of the meidpass (2790m) admiring the Almighty decent down to Gruben. It was a 2 hour hike over rough exposed terrain.then through alpine forest down to the tiny town.

 

We arrived at Gruben by 16:00 – Hotel Schwarzhorn as it was the only service of hospitality.

 

Straight to the garden for “drinks” then checkin to our 12 bed Dorm – literally 12 mattresses on the floor. What a experience that was, Snores ???

 

Who doesn’t snore? Apparently Three of our group say they don’t snore – yeah right…

 

10/7/17 Day 11 St Niklaus (1127m) to Zermatt (18km) Height Gain (479m) High Point – Zermatt (1606m) Time (7hrs) High Point – Zermatt (1606m)

Haute Route, The Walkers Route

 

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IF YOU DECIDE TO MAKE A PURCHASE THROUGH MY LINKS, AT NO COST TO YOU.

 

Gear for your trip, i recommend to visit The North Face Or Merrell Australia and Mountain Designs

for Backpacks visit Osprey Back Packs

 

If you would like to make a booking for accomodation while staying in Cortina and the Dolomites Region,

please see Booking.com

 

 

 

Indigo Adventures

Norman Herfurth

(C)Indigo Photography

Yours In Adventure

 

 

“This Blog is of the Opinion of my own Personal Experiences and are not necessarily Fact.. and is written to the best of my knowledge, but there may be omissions, errors or mistakes. This blog is for entertainment and/or informational purposes only and shouldn’t be seen as any kind of advice.”